A story of revenge and murder

For those that join us on our Castles and Shipwrecks canoe trip will have a chance to stop off at Loch Oichs ‘Well of the 7 heads’ monument. What is the well of the 7 heads I hear you ask! Well to cut a long story short, it’s kind of what it ‘says on the tin’. It is a water well with a monument of 7 heads fixed to the top. But to find out why this monument was erected back in the era when clans battled the highlands, we need to go back over 350 years ago, for a story of revenge and murder…

For those that are familiar with their Scottish clan history, will have almost certainly heard of the McDonald clan. One of the largest in the Highlands. But like any large power, internal struggle for dominance occurred.

In the highlands far far away…

This tale started back in 1663 when the current chief of the Keppoch family, Alasdair Macdonell, and his brother, Ranald were throwing a prestigious party upon their return from France. This powerful pair, part of the MacDonald clan were being monitored closely by the unpopular current reforming clan chief, and it was rumored that he wanted them out of the equation. Part of this reason, like the start of many clan battles, was over land!

The party being carried out at a mansion in Roy Bridge came to an abrupt end when an argument went out of control between the pair and their uncle and cousins, Alexander McDonald and his 6 sons from Inverlair. It is believed that the argument started by the cousins mocking their newly formed French accent and mannerisms, which escalated out of control. Others believe this was just a cover up for the planned attack. What ever the detail of the night, the facts remained that is powerful pair finished the night dead, and the attackers were known by all.

With the attack being interclan, as opposed to opposing clans, very differing opinions were sought. Some took little pity for the privileged pair, and saw it coming. Where as loyal followers wanted revenge, and a lesson to be taught.

In comes John MacDonald of the Keppoch family – known as Iain Lom, a nickname created from his physical features. (In clan culture, where many men of the same clan share a name, they are referred to by their characteristics. Lom meaning bald in Gaelic). Iain Lom wanted justice, so appealed to chiefs of the MacDonald clan of Glen Garry to take action, but nothing was achieved other than forcing himself into exile. Iain Loms journey then took him to Sir James MacDonald of Sleat, who grew up with the Alasdair and Renald. Initially Sir James MacDonald didn’t want to interfere, especially in the domestics of another tribe. However emotional blackmail got the better of him as Iain Lom used his skill of poetry and language to steer his views.

Sir James MacDonald enabled the letter of ‘fire and sword’ to be issued against the killers and sent Iain Lom on his way with 50 men to avenge the killing of the pair, a whole 2 years after the attack.

Lesson learned?

Iain Lom didn’t hold back and wanted to make sure everyone knew that justice had been served! The 7 men were hunted down and their heads decapitated as proof of death. The corpses were dumped in Inverlair, and the severed heads transported back to Glen Garry to present them to Lord Macdonell at Invergarry Castle. Upon arrival, he headed down to the waters of Loch Oich to clean them, where the monument now stands. Almost as if these were his proud trophies.

The heads ended up at the gallows between Edinburgh and Leith, where as local story telling kept the tale alive. In 1812, the new Chief of Clan Macdonell erected the monument to symbolise a future lesson to all…

Fancy a coffee with the 7 heads?

Just across from the sculpture is one of our favourites cafes. The Well of the Seven Heads Coffee and Takeaway, it is the perfect stop whether you are driving past or paddling on Loch Oich. Leave it to the owners to make you the best breakfast roll in town. Yes, they have lorne sausage. We are in Scotland after all. Don’t worry they have link sausage tae.  There is always an array of home baked goods that Kelly has made for those with a sweet-tooth.

You’ll probably see Darren in the back cooking up your hot food, if you are brave enough or have an empty stomach go for the Magnificent 7. You won’t be disappointed. All their rolls and toasties are loaded full of your filling and for a fabulous price…don’t miss out on this hidden gem. Grab a hot coffee and a roll and enjoy the scenic views ahead.